The common practice in the art of permanent waving involves the reformation of hair about a mold to impart long wearing control in the new shape. This action is obtained by first placing the hair under tension, such as by wrapping the hair about a form. The most common form is a rod shaped device which serves as a template for the "curls" desired.
Once the hair has been placed about the mold, it is then treated with certain aqueous solutions of chemicals which allow for the internal structure of the hair fiber system to enter into a plasma state. While in this plasma state, the fibers within the hairs central portion, known as the cortex, acquire this new shape.
The chemicals typically employed in this action are of the chemical class of mercaptans, that is organic compounds which have terminal atoms of sulfur. In such permanent wave compositions, the lotions typically comprise aqueous solutions of sulfur-oxygen compounds such as bisulfite, sulfite, and the like. It is also common to employ the use of alkali salts of these latter materials to case the formulation of such lotions.
Once the hair has been saturated with the waving lotion and has been molded about the rod, it is left to stand for a prescribed amount of time. This allows for the maximum amount of fiber repositioning to occur. The net effect of application of an aqueous lotion of mercaptan to hair is the chemical alteration of its interior molecular structure. While there is uncertainty as to the actual composition of hair, it is established that much of the internal binding forces of hair is due to the presence of disulfide bonds which crosslink the proteinaceous areas of the cortex. This can be stylized by the representation of: EQU K--S--S--K
where K is the keratin structure of hair and S--S is the disulfide cross-link.
In permanent waving, the mercaptan reacts with the keratin disulfide to generate two equivalents of keratin sulfide: EQU K--S--S--K+2RSH 2K--SH--+R--S--S---R
where RSH is mercaptan. The keratin sulfide is then forced to undergo annealation by the addition of an oxidizing agent to the hair. This reforms the cortex inner structure in its new state. It is known that depending on the ability to remove residual mercaptan and K--S--S--R, known as a mixed disulfide, the hair will have a maleder.
Although substantial effort that has occurred in prior art permanent wave compositions, these prior art compositions have been incapable of eliminating or substantially reducing the maleder resulting from the permanent wave procedure. Although various prior art attempts have been made, no successful or elimination or substantial reduction of this maleder has been attained.
An additional problem found in prior art permanent wave formulations is the continuing desire to attain a tighter permanently waved curl as a result of the permanent wave application. In spite of substantial efforts to improve curl tightness in the prior art compositions, there has been a general inability to provide the degree of curl tightness sought by the consuming public.
Furthermore, the industry has also sought to increase the luster, sheen, gloss and manageability of the hair as well as provide a permanently waved head of hair which is soft, supple, and possesses a natural feel. However, these goals have not been fully attained.
Therefore, it is a principal object of the present invention to provide a cold permanent waving formulation which virtually eliminates the malodor typically associated with permanent waving procedures.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a cold permanent waving formulation having the characteristic features described above which also provides a substantially tighter curl configuration than previously attainable.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a cold permanent waving formulation having the characteristic features described above which also imparts to the permanently waved head of hair a high luster, gloss, sheen and improved manageability.
A further object of the present invention is to provide a cold permanent waving formulation having the characteristic features described above which also imparts to the permanently waved head of hair a full bodied appearance which is easily managed.
Other and more specific objects will in part be obvious and will in part appear hereinafter.